Do young people make their own kimchi and store it in the drawer, or do most go buy it premade and stock the drawer?

Complicated! Kimchi that goes into the drawer is gimjang kimchi. Anything else doesn’t necessarily go into the drawer.

Gimjang kimchi making is very much a communal thing; often we make a year’s worth of kimchi around November, with all the family members gathered round. It’s almost ceremonial.

A lot of people still do it, including my family, but it’s dying out as well.